Showing posts with label Yuba County. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Yuba County. Show all posts

Monday, October 10, 2011

Yuba County Harvest Report - Clos Saron: Good quantities and Quality

Gideon Bienstock, winemaker at Clos Saron (Oregon House, Yuba County, Sierra Foothills region) sends his harvest report update:

At Clos Saron, we finished picking our Pinot Noir and Syrah October 3, just before the storm. Quantities were good, as our 1999 planting keep maturing and producing more, now reaching one ton per acre (!!).

Quality was good with two issues: larger grapes (from heavy rains all through the spring and early summer) in the Syrah, showing as less concentrated than usual (some may view this as a plus); in the Pinot, there was considerable shrivelling - not as bad as last year, but bad enough. Perhaps 10% of the crop had to be cleaned out of the raisins while picking. Average sugars were low (which is the way we like it), around 22.5-23 brix. Acidity was excellent in the Pinot and good in the syrah.

We are no longer farming the sites we used to lease, so for the next few years, until our own new plantings come to age, we will be sourcing fruit outside of our area. All of our whites were purchased this year, as well as some Cinsault.


(Gideon clarified that he sources his "outside fruit" from Yuba County, mostly the North Yuba AVA)

More about Clos Saron (from their website)

"A cool microclimate in the Oregon House Valley: forty five hundred vines planted on a gentle, well-drained, north-east facing slope. Red loam and clay topsoil on decomposed granite and volcanic ash subsoil, sprinkled with fragments of granite rocks, basalt, and quartz. The virgin soil is pure, uncontaminated, alive with microorganisms and earthworms.

The Sierra Nevada Foothills are not the first to spring to mind when thinking about Pinot Noir in California, and yet this site provides an ideal microclimate and soil combination for its demanding nature. The soil – poor in organic matter and rich in minerals – has a unique combination of volcanic, clay, and alluvial elements, providing a rare equilibrium of water retention and good drainage. Our growing season is neither too dry nor too wet, neither too hot nor too cold. Bud break in late-March to mid-April, bloom in late-May to mid-June, harvest in early-September to mid-October.


Our Vineyard is like a Nature Reserve
Age-old Burgundy traditions are implemented in our young, virgin soil:
  • Densely planted vines (3‘x6’).
  • Vine-vigor and crop level kept to a minimum by dry farming and precision pruning.
  • Vinifera vines are grown on their own roots (this area is free of phylloxera).
  • The long-term well-being of the soil and the vines is ensured by a sustainable approach to viticulture combining organic and Bio-dynamic principles.
  • A well-balanced, symbiotic micro-cosmos is established in our farm, including humans, animals, trees, vines, and all other living organisms.
  • Our vineyard is like a natural reserve: free of herbicides, insecticides, pesticides, and chemical fertilizers. To control mildew, we spray elemental sulfur two to three times per season (compared to 8-15 times of powerful “high-tech” fungicides in conventional viticulture).
We tend to every vine numerous times during the season, making sure every shoot bears only what it can ripen fully. The small size of the vineyard allows us to harvest only perfectly ripe grapes, in consecutive passes through the vines.

The Essence in the Bottle

Our goal is to produce enjoyable, well–balanced wines, expressive of their distinctive terroir.

Our primary interest in Pinot Noir is due to its unique ability to capture the essence of its place of origin. “Traditionalists” in Burgundy will tell you that a good Pinot expresses its varietal, whereas a great one expresses its terroir... You will certainly find our Pinots distinctly different from their Russian River, Central Coast, and Oregon relatives, while being as true to their varietal as any.

Our other blends and varietal wines are made from grapes grown in nearby vineyards. Saron and I are closely involved with all the viticultural aspects of producing these grapes, to make sure they match our demanding standards: organic farming practices, very low yields (1-1.4 tons/acre for reds, 1.5-2 tons/acre for whites), hand harvesting. In the winery, they get the same red-carpet treatment we give to our estate-grown fruit."

Sunday, March 27, 2011

Rhone Rangers ride The Sierra and Its Foothills: San Francisco Tasting Lassos Them In


For lovers of Rhone varietals, nothing can be more ecstatic than the annual Rhone Rangers tasting at Fort Mason in San Francisco. (That’s assuming you don’t follow the organization around to its many tastings elsewhere, of course. ) But for a devotee of Sierra and Its Foothills wines, it’s a pleasure to taste so many flagship wines all in one place.

That “flagship” wine question is one I always ask, and yesterday I asked it of these wineries: Clos Saron, Crystal Basic Cellars, David Girard, Holly’s Hill, Miraflores, Prospect 772, Sierra Vista, Skinner, and Terre Rouge. Here’s what I heard (and tasted):

Clos Saron (Yuba County).
Winemaker Gideon Bienstock is most fond of his Pinot Noir, but he does have a lovely hand with his 2010 Syrah rose. The 2010 Tickled Pink is a lovely dry and food-friendly rose.

Crystal Basin Cellars ( El Dorado County).
Their 2008 Mourvedre, El Dorado Reserve, uses grapes sourced from Fodhla Vineyard and Spanish Creek Ranch. Their winemaker refers to this as “the Merlot of the Rhone.”


David Girard Vineyards (El Dorado County).
The 2009 Coda Blanc is a white blend of Rousanne, Grenache Blanc, Rolle, Marsanne, and Viognier. The 2008 won a Silver in the 2010 San Francisco Chronicle competition, and this newer vintage is lovely too.



Holly’s Hill Vineyards (El Dorado County).
Their landmark wine, said the pourers, is BOTH of their Patriarche blends: the 2009 White Blend, Patriarche Blanc, and the 2008 Red Blend, Patriarche.





Miraflores Winery (El Dorado County).
The 2009 Viognier is a slightly sweet late harvest wine. Only 54 cases were produced, so hurry!



Prospect 772 (Calaveras County).
The 2008 The Brat is a 60/40 blend of Grenache and Syrah. “We called this wine “The Brat” because it is based in Grenache and Grenache is a temperamental grape,” they note.


Sierra Vista Winery (El Dorado County).
The 2008 Syrah, Estate, Red Rock Ridge is a new feather in winemaker John MacCready’s cap. “very reminiscent of a Cote Rotie,” he says. Yum.





Skinner Vineyards and Winery (El Dorado County).
The 2007 Syrah, Stoney Creek Vineyard, Fair Play, has a touch of Viognier. Grapes were grown on a ridgetop that ranges from 2,610 to 2,740 feet in elevation.


Terre Rouge (Amador County).
2007 Terre Rouge L'Autre Grenache Syrah Mouvedre Blend is their top Rhone varietal blend. “This is a dead ringer for a top Southern Rhône like a Châteauneuf-du-Pape or Gigondas,” says winemaker notes.

And then, there are these final words...

Friday, March 18, 2011

225 Sierra & Its Foothills Wineries: Growing in Numbers and Thriving via Quality

In the summer of 2010, I spent months on the mountain roads of the Sierra and its Foothills, visiting 40-50 of the 225 wineries there.  People are always astounded at those numbers -- even those in the wine business who ought to understand the economics and allure of vinifera-friendly land that doesn't cost a fortune (um, Napa and Sonoma come to mind...). 

In the process, I met wonderful people who are truly dedicated to grapegrowing at altitude, and who are producing Mountain wines that are incredible: intense, unique, sometimes even experimental in terms of blends and varietals.  It's certainly not about the numbers here in the Sierra, but in case you are interested, let me answer, to the best of my ability, the most frequently asked question:

So what's the current count?

In alphabetical order by county:
CALIFORNIA
48    Amador
39    Calaveras
74    El Dorado ..   oops, 75
6      Mariposa
20    Nevada
23    Placer
1      Sutter
5      Tuolumne
6      Yuba
NEVADA
3 - Washoe County

So the number is currently 226... and additions are being made all the time.  Let me know of the newcomers, please!

For example, just yesterday, I was talking to Doug Noble, Food and Wine Writer for the Mountain Democrat Newspaper, which circulates widely in El Dorado County.  He was raving about a dinner he'd had recently that featured wines from Nello Olivo.  Don't know how I missed that one, but that raised the El Dorado County winery number to 75.   The new Nello Olivo Wine Tasting Room opened fairly recently.   It is in the historic cellar of the Sequoia Restaurant (the restored Bee-Bennett Victorian mansion) in downtown Placerville.  The Winery is located in Cameron Park. They produce Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon, Claret, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Primitivo, Sangiovese, Toscanello (a blend that is primarily Sangiovese), and a Super Tuscan.

More about the winery: (a few remarks cribbed from their website,  www.nelloolivo.com/
The Olivos have chosen to grow old-world style grapes—particularly those common to regions of Italy, Nello's ancestral home—which flourish in the California Sierra Foothills terroir and climate.

"A lifelong dream of mine," says Nello, "has been to grow my own grapes and produce my own wine. That's exactly what my grandfather did who came from the old country. It's a passion in me. It's probably in my blood. When I'm doing that, I feel like a happy little kid!"

Rancho Olivo Vineyards is a true boutique winery, producing less than 100 cases of each varietal annually. This makes Nello Olivo wines true sought-after treasures by those who have discovered its qualities.

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